When my good mate Stitch, a man for whom the phrase larger than life could have been coined, messaged me to suggest we head to Dhaka for the 2nd Test, merely two weeks ago, my first reaction was to decline. Security was at the forefront of my mind, while I was sure visas would be a problem at such a late stage. Stitch had the visa issue nailed; "on arrival", he swiftly advised, is readily available. On the security front I have often paid scant attention to Home Office advisory for business purposes, and so was relatively easily persuaded when I contacted a long time Bangladeshi friend, and cricketing teammate, Rizwan, in Dhaka. He assured me all was well and, while on Day one of the Test I was nervous arriving at the ground, all was indeed well, with Rizwan a most generous host from start to finish.
The Ministry of Home Affairs raised no objections, we checked life insurance was up to date and, with flights booked and accommodation at the Westin quickly sorted, off we went. The SQ lounge is usually the starting venue for any tour leaving these shores, for those of us lucky enough to regard Singapore as home, and so, even though our touring party was smaller than usual, this trip was no exception. With customary generous pour we started in style. That and generous servings of scotch on the flight meant arrival in Dhaka passed in the blink of an eye and we were soon at the hotel.
I awoke for Day One jaded, despite the comfort of the room, but the buffet breakfast in the Starwood Club Lounge settled things and offered as good a choice as anywhere I have stayed. There is a remarkable consistency to a Westin breakfast, which is comforting and laudable. Rizwan had sorted our tickets and we journeyed to the ground not quite knowing what to expect. Our driver, in seeking to deliver us right to the gates of the ground, caused me to question our decision to travel. Was it really that unsafe that we could not walk 200 metres from the end of a blocked off road? In the end he talked us, and the car, through the barrier and right to the gates of the ground but in so doing left me with a sense of foreboding. From there things quickly improved.
Barricades
security was evident....
We entered the ground and immediately found a contingent of travelling England fans, one of whom, Barmy Army “Big Lad” Graham (the voice of The Lion sleeps Tonight) I had met before, and we were quickly made to feel welcome. The first morning rendition of Jerusalem had the hairs on the back of my neck to attention, while an early wicket for Woakes was the perfect start to the day. Before long we were captured on camera and messages began to flow from friends watching around the world. Given there were no more than 20-30 England fans in the ground our TV appearance was unsurprising. Less so certainly than Bangladesh's second wicket partnership, which seemed destined to put the game beyond England, until mid-way through the afternoon session, when a momentary lapse in concentration from Tamim opened the door. Ben Stokes, who has been the standout player for England in the series and Moeen Ali, who had conjured the initial breakthrough, needed no second invitation. Sharp catches were held, poor shots were played and in less than a session we had witnessed the game's first astonishing collapse. At 190 for 2 in 45 overs I had again begun to doubt the decision to travel; watching an England opposition wrack up a monumental total is not on my bucket list, but did seem our assigned lot. Until Moeen and Stokes wrestled the game back in England’s favour, gaining control for the first, and possibly only time in the match, with well-directed spin and equally accurate reverse swing bowling. While Stokes only took two wickets his 11 overs 2 for 13 represented a monumental effort, while the collapse from 190 for 2 to 220 all out was quite remarkable.
The collapse did not stop the locals in the crowd from enjoying themselves, a troupe dressed as tigers, admittedly somewhat yellow tigers, visited the England section of the Grand Stand and posed for selfies, thanked us for coming and showed a collective set of death any dentist would be proud of. A few roars for effect and then they were off and we were left with an elderly Ektara player (yes I looked it up) for company, who seemed only to quiet for food………….
Our host had kindly arranged Oktoberfest dinner at the German Club. Not quite what one expected, though that said I was not sure what to expect from Dhaka, but the beer flowed and sauerkraut and chicken filled stomachs empty from our decision not to eat at the ground. Others in the group of supporters were much braver, though I certainly did not envy them their cheeseburger, at any stage, nor their journeys in tuk-tuks, (getting old!). Or for a few in the party, in the back of an ambulance, which brought up the rear of the England convoy (well perhaps that bit!). Bangladesh commentator, Athr Ali Khan, joined us and conversation flowed with all bemused by the changes in fortunes during the day, while we reminisced about prior performances, Rizwan, and I, for Little Sai Wan in Hong Kong, and Athr Ali, for Bangladesh. Both Rizwan and Athr Ali had far more to reminisce about! Dinner finished we were warmly welcomed into the home of a friend of our host, and treated to a generous helping of single malt, before we headed, exhausted, back to the luxurious comfort of a Westin bed.
Day Two and, with a schoolboy error, we arrived late, as play had started half an hour early due to the overs lost on day one. Today our car was not getting through the barriers and so we walked 200 yards to the ground, stopped to join in a game of street cricket, passed the water cannon parked quietly roadside and entered the ground to the news that Moeen had already fallen and we had missed Jerusalem. A shocking start to the day. And things only got worse as England, despite a knock from Joe Root that promised more, a brief cameo from Bairstow, and a nervous 13 from Ansari, stuttered to 163 for 8 at lunch.
The collapse did not stop the locals in the crowd from enjoying themselves, a troupe dressed as tigers, admittedly somewhat yellow tigers, visited the England section of the Grand Stand and posed for selfies, thanked us for coming and showed a collective set of death any dentist would be proud of. A few roars for effect and then they were off and we were left with an elderly Ektara player (yes I looked it up) for company, who seemed only to quiet for food………….
A sneakie selfie
By day's end Bangladesh were back on top, a good take down the leg side accounted for Duckett, Cook was undone, LBW playing back, and Ballance, who seemed bereft of confidence lunged forward and edged through to the keeper. With men around the bat, and Bangladesh spinners exerting far more control than anyone other than Ben Stokes and latterly Moeen Ali could muster for England, batting was clearly challenging. When rain came and at 50 for 3, we thought that was just as well, though it did mean a soaking for us before we reached the car sent to collect us. Our driver had not been able to breach the security cordon and was parked at the end of a road blocked off by two buses parked across it. A road, incidentally, where cricket was still being played, enthusiastically, despite the torrential downpour.Our host had kindly arranged Oktoberfest dinner at the German Club. Not quite what one expected, though that said I was not sure what to expect from Dhaka, but the beer flowed and sauerkraut and chicken filled stomachs empty from our decision not to eat at the ground. Others in the group of supporters were much braver, though I certainly did not envy them their cheeseburger, at any stage, nor their journeys in tuk-tuks, (getting old!). Or for a few in the party, in the back of an ambulance, which brought up the rear of the England convoy (well perhaps that bit!). Bangladesh commentator, Athr Ali Khan, joined us and conversation flowed with all bemused by the changes in fortunes during the day, while we reminisced about prior performances, Rizwan, and I, for Little Sai Wan in Hong Kong, and Athr Ali, for Bangladesh. Both Rizwan and Athr Ali had far more to reminisce about! Dinner finished we were warmly welcomed into the home of a friend of our host, and treated to a generous helping of single malt, before we headed, exhausted, back to the luxurious comfort of a Westin bed.
Day Two and, with a schoolboy error, we arrived late, as play had started half an hour early due to the overs lost on day one. Today our car was not getting through the barriers and so we walked 200 yards to the ground, stopped to join in a game of street cricket, passed the water cannon parked quietly roadside and entered the ground to the news that Moeen had already fallen and we had missed Jerusalem. A shocking start to the day. And things only got worse as England, despite a knock from Joe Root that promised more, a brief cameo from Bairstow, and a nervous 13 from Ansari, stuttered to 163 for 8 at lunch.
Maintaining a low profile
The morning session was enlivened as three chaps behind us who began to assemble costumes that had clearly been decided upon late into a long session. They stepped slowly, with much merriment, into their plastic legs and then, as the battery operated pump whirred into operation, three prancing unicorns evolved. No one asked why but these three were surely not worried about maintaining a low profile, and given no alcohol was available, or capable of being smuggled into the ground, their performance was not chemically enhanced. Once fully inflated off they set for a slow trot along the front of the upper Grand Stand stopping for a host of selfies with bemused and, at the same time, fascinated locals. Indeed our very presence seemed of significance to many as, one by one, they sidled up to seats in front, or beside us, simply, and without word, to capture their image alongside our own. Celebrity, of sorts.
I did not capture a photo of the prancing threesome but this is close..........
Aggers taking a break from commentary - great to have the chance to dine with him.
As with day one the afternoon belonged to England. Woakes and Rashid batted sensibly and looked as comfortable as Tamim and Mominul had been the previous day. They were assisted by the bizarre decision to employ seam from one end, when spin had clearly bamboozled England all morning. The hard new ball brought the partnership to an end on 99, depriving Woakes of a deserved 50, and the pair of a deserved 100 partnership. The Watford Wall strode purposefully to the crease but could not keep the attackers at bay and succumbed quickly to a catch behind. England though had a lead of 24, which represented a triumph and offered hope for victory. We mused on what was a gettable target; 250 we thought might be a bridge too far.
At the start of the Bangladesh second innings Finn opened to a field suggesting a fiery spell, with plenty of short pitched bowling into the ribs. One slip and two men back on the hook, seemed indicative of such, but the barrage never materialised and Tamim and Imrul got off to a swift start. Finn’s spell of 3 overs went for 18 and bowled only 12 overs in the match. After being unable to land the ball in the first innings Ansari was, somewhat surprisingly, entrusted with first change duties and rewarded that trust by delivering the wicket of Tamim, caught by, a grateful, Cook. Stokes, who led England’s attack, was quickly called upon and duly delivered the wicket of Mominul to a sharp slip catch, again by Cook, and the balance had swung back in England’s favour.
Imrul and Mahmudullah batted with ease and, having arranged an early dinner, we left 3 overs before the close and did not discover until we arrived back at the hotel that Ansari had taken a wicket with the last ball of the day. The bell boy at the hotel shared the news with a smile. Even three down Bangladesh had again shaded the day.
We had set an early meet time with Jonathan Agnew, aka, universally, Aggers, at the Radisson and so we asked our driver to try and get us there on time. He went above and beyond in doing so, with a driving display that James Bond would have been proud of, and which had the normally effusive Stitch somewhat quiet. A short stretch overtaking two lanes of stationary traffic on the wrong side of the road, while flashing lights at oncoming traffic, was the highlight.....once our adrenalin levels had settled dinner with Aggers was a real treat. Chatting quietly to one of cricket's favourite, and finest, commentators and sharing views on the day's play, the state of the match, the tour, on chances for England in India, family updates and Aggers recounting his frightening brush with severe weather while out flying with Tino, his faithful canine companion was the kind of end of day that Carlsberg might have dreamt up.
This side of a bus bears witness to Dhaka traffic...
Stitch and the excellent doorman at the Westin as we departed for day three.
England had started the afternoon session well and went on to totally dominate it. Cook and Duckett, batting with intent, set about the target of 273 with gusto. Duckett was dropped at slip quite early on, but used the sweep and reverse sweep to good effect against spinners, who bowled more and more loose deliveries as tea approached. Cook put the bad ball away and looked at ease. Duckett, while generally solid and confident, seemed not to move his back foot across when playing back outside off stump and could easily have perished to the cut shot on several occasions. His though was a deserved 50 and he seems to be at his best when playing with aggression and freedom.
At tea we had a dilemma, should we return to our seats with the fellow England supporters in the Grandstand ? or remain where we had been at the start of an unbeaten 100 partnership; behind the bowlers arm at the Media Centre End, outside in the sun? Students of the game, and changing room protocol, would concur with our decision to stay where we were. Superstition though did not help as Duckett played back, when he should probably have gone forward, first ball after tea to start a collapse of horrible proportions.
Root who was unwell, (might finger licking ball shining duties have contributed?) played down the Piccadilly line to a ball on Northern and was hit in front, not even bothering to review. Gary Ballance looked more confident than in the first innings, until he contrived to misfit a long hop straight up into the air to be safely pouched. Moeen played for non-existent spin and departed LBW, and Cook fell to a bat bad catch, having survived a review for LBW. Suddenly in the space of 10 overs England had gone from a dominant 100 for 0, to a very panicked 127 for 5 and the game was almost up. Bairstow and Stokes briefly arrested the slide but once Johnny departed, caught for an 18 ball 3, the writing was on the wall. Stokes was bowled much to his disgust, by Shakib, and Rashid, Ansari and Finn could not muster a single between them. Finn calling for a review, when none was available, summed up England's desperation.
In effect 64 all out post tea. And really not much had changed the ball did not seem to be misbehaving to the extent that such a collapse suggests, but the impact of the wicket immediately after tea on the crowd and on the Bangladeshi team was marked. Throughout the game the ground was either hushed and near silent, with none of the usual match day murmuring, or intensely alive and hostile with several thousand Bangladeshis chanting in unison. True the bowlers found a much better length and line in the evening session but England will be bitterly disappointed with their batting.
Game over we headed to our car and, on our walk to our car, were stopped for countless selfies by excited Bangladesh supporters who thronged the streets outside the ground. We had no clue who they thought we were, or indeed why they thought us worthy of such photography, but had we not needed to get to the car we might still be taking snaps. We even managed an interview for local television and could do little more than congratulate Bangladesh on a deserved victory. Who knows if ever our pearls of wisdom survived the cutting room?
There was time for some Thai Basil chicken expertly cooked by our host ,at his home, along with some truly delicious Bangladeshi desserts, our only taste of Bangladesh, before we headed to the airport and home with memories of a great Test and such a warm welcome.
Hopefully England will find a better rhythm in India. They will surely need to. While, given the batting frailty against spin, one wonders whether 3 seamers and 3 spinners is not a luxury. England will welcome back Stuart Broad for his 100th Test, but an unforgiving schedule gives no chance for those not playing to press their claims. Surely there will be other changes to the line-up and, given only Moeen among the spinners offered any consistency, perhaps two spinners and an extra batsmen (Buttler) might be the best combination, while it would be no surprise to see Haseeb Hameed, young though he looks, given a chance at the top of the order, with Duckett taking the place of Gary Ballance at four.
Finally thanks to Rizwan, Athr Ali, Aggers, a very friendly bunch of England fans, the tremendous staff at the Westin and to the Bangladeshi fans we met, and posed with, for a hugely enjoyable few days.
